A city forged in battle, war, conquest and fate,
Krakow is in many respects the most Polish of all this great nation’s cities. The ancient seat of kings and intelligentsia comes steeped in legend and myth, and evokes the most fanciful of images, from dragons occupying the catacombs of Wawel, to Tartar hordes repelled at the gates, to an earnest Vladimir Lenin plotting revolution while sitting in the city’s cafes.
Krakow’s history is the stuff of fantasy.
Gay life is very much covert in Krakow, with one disappointed American visitor moved to denounce it as ‘crap’. A degree of patience should be enough to unravel what few gems can be found in the haystack of Krakow’s mainstream bars. Without doubt the crowning glory of the Queen Scene is Kitsch (ul. Wielopole 15/4). Found on the second floor this nightclub is gay-friendly as opposed to gay-exclusive, though the parties do often end in debauchery. Don’t let the torn and frayed interiors fool you, door selection can be ruthless at the weekends. Re-opened for the last year, Cocon on ul. Gazowa 14 can be identified by the bluish light above the entrance. Head down here (open only on weekend evenings) for what is fast becoming known as one of the best gay club nights in the city. Deeper in Kazimierz you’ll find Pozytywka (ul. Bożego Ciała 12) regarded as one of the most gay friendly bars in the area, while heading in the direction of old town don’t miss a visit to Start (ul. Bracka 4) to mince with lipstick lesbians and hairdressers inside a small bar that shines, glitters and reminds of the Miami Vice era. Further afield 7 Club (ul. Św. Filipa 7) is an attractive pub/club crossover accessible at the ring of a doorbell. Cabaret and drag shows sometimes shake the evening up, though usually you’ll find the volume low enough for conversation. Round the corner Ciemnia Club (ul. Krowoderska 31) is a more intense male only environment, with an industrial design, techno tracks and a curtained off cinema screen and mock labyrinth filled with shadowy figures. Ring the doorbell to be summoned inside this courtyard spot.