Berlin is one of the world´s largest cities and first-timers may have a hard time getting a handle on this sprawling metropolis.  The old political and geographical boundaries that divided East Berlin from West Berlin have disappeared now, but there is still a marked difference between the two areas.  The eastern side of the city has a more trendy appeal and quite stunning architecture - not saying that the west does not have these things too, but it is as though the east has tried a lot harder to catch up and ended up surpassing the west!

If you are seeking history, then Berlin is a good place to come - with its wide streets and flamboyant government buildings it is possible to spend a day wandering around being awed by the city.  If that does not appeal to you, then drinking and eating seems like a natural pastime for many Berliners - whether you are seeking outdoor cafes (even in the winter!) or trendy Michelin-starred restaurants, they can all be found in Berlin.

The gay scene is thriving in Berlin and it is estimated that 1 in 10 of its inhabitants is gay, lesbian or bisexual.  This makes the city one of the top 3 cities in Europe (by size of population) along with Amsterdam and London.  As a result, the gay scene integrates seemlessly with the straight scene and same-sex couples are a part of everyday life.

In the former West Berlin, the "establihsed", mainly male gay scene is centered around the Nollendorfplatz in Schoenberg.  This is the first place that many gays will head for when they come to Berlin and houses an assortment of bars, restaurants, hotels and nightlife.  In Kreuzberg, a traditionally liberal and multi-ethnic district there is a less centralised scene which is more intertwined with the vibrancy of the diverse residents.  The gay museum is also based in Kreuzberg and is a private museum dedicated to documenting gay and lesbian history, art and culture. 

Over in the former eastern side of the city there is a newer scene which has its roots in the partially political gay and lesbian movement which gained ground towards the end of the GDR.  Prenzlauer Berg is the traditional heart of this scene but with the district's gentrification gay life has certainly become more sophisticated in this district.  The same thing is also happening with the downmarket Friedrichshain area.  One word of warning: for people who want to travel east of Ostkreuz, certain right wing elements might make gay and lesbians feel uncomfortable and so approach these areas with caution.

The gay and lesbian population in Berlin is very high and single sex couples are seen everywhere.  As such, there is little prejudice and unless you travel to the more provincial eastern areas of Berlin where caution is advised, you will encounter few problems.

Germany recently introduced a "registered partnership" law, enabling gays to be recognised by the law as having equal rights within a partnership - this is akin to a marriage. 

Getting around

Berlin´s public transportation sytem makes getting around fast, convenient, safe, and relatively inexpensive. It consists of subways ( U-Bahn), elevated trains (S-Bahn), streecars, buses, and even ferries. The fare is based on zones, and the same basic ticket price applies for all of them (except the ferries, which are run by a separate company).There are several tickets options. You can by single tickets up to day tickets. By your ticket at an U-Bahn station or at the BVG-Pavillion (Hardenbergplatz, outside the zoo station) They´ll also give you a free transportation map. Validate your ticket before boarding by sticking it into one of the red validation boxes on the U-Bahn and S-Bahn platforms or inside buses and streetcars.There are no turnstiles or collectors , bur en route inspectors my appear to check everyone´s ticket. If yours hasn´t been validated, you´re guilty of schwarzfahren ( black travel) and you will get fined.

By Subway

Berlin´s subway is the U-Bahn ( think “underground”), with 10 lines crisscrossing the city and extendingto the far reaches of Brandenburg. A large U in a blue box identifies each station, and the routes are clearly marked in al stations and in the trains. Service is fast and efficient, but after midnight only two lines, U 19 and U2, run on a limited schedule;they intersect at Bahnhof Zoo.

By Bus

Riding atop one on of the double-decker buses ( there are single-deckers too) is a fun way to see the city. One of the best and cheapest sightseeing routes is on bus no 100, which leaves from Bahnhof Zoo and travels through the Tiergarten passing Bellevue Palace ( the Berlin residence of the German president), the Reichstag, and the Victory Column to the Brandenburger Gate, Unter den Linden,Museums Island and Alexanderplatz. Night buses leave ervery half an hour,going west and east, from Bahnhof Zoo and Bahnhof Hackescher Markt (near Alexanderplatz in the eastern section) Each bus stop is identified by a green H ( for Haltestelle,stop) in a yellow circle; you can buy tickets from the driver and validate them on the bus. Buses are part of the transportation network and prices are the same as for the U-Bahn and S-Bahn.

By Taxi

Thousands of ivory colored taxis cruise Berlins main streets, and it´s usually easy to hail one during the day ( it takes longer at night). Cabs can be expensive,thought if you´re going any distance. A new option that helps cut down cost is the Kurzstrecke ( short distance ride): For 2,5€ , the driver will take you 2km / about 1 ¼ miles) You have to inform the driver you want a Kurzstrecke before the meter starts.By Streetcar Streetcars, called Strassenbahnen, run in eastern Berlin only. Since you can get partically everywhere on the U-Bahn or S-Bahn you probably won´t be using the streetcar. Ticket prices are the same as for the U-Bahn, S-Bahn and buses.By Car Don´t wast your time or your money renting a car in Berlin. The public transportation system will get you everywhere you want; if you´re out very late, you can grab a cab. The only time a car may come in useful is if you want to explore the countryside.