Egypt’s capital city is a hustling, bustling, vibrant city. It’s not a destination for the shy or retiring traveller; what with the crowds, intense heat, poverty and tourist scams, it’s definitely a place for a hardy and streetwise type. There is so much to see, however, that the hassle is all worth it; from Pyramids and tombs to mosques and markets, Cairo is the place to immerse yourself in authentic Egyptian culture and get a real flavour for the Arabic way of life. In terms of gay culture, however, Cairo is not a hotspot. Homosexuality is considered wrong in Egypt, gay men are constantly persecuted if discovered, and lesbians all but invisible.
Culture
There is way too much to see and do in Cairo to sum up in a few paragraphs, but the most obvious stop for any traveller is the pyramids. Their mind-boggling size and fascinating history gives an idea of the absolute power and privilege of the ancient pharaohs. Make sure to you take a trip to see them; tours to see the awesome structures can be had relatively cheaply as there are many companies competing for the tourist buck. Equally, the Sphinx is a must-see; history geeks can spend hours researching the various legends behind its mysterious construction, or simply enjoy making up your own. Aside from these obvious choices, the Egyptians provide many more showcases for their rich and intriguing history. The Umm Kolthum Museum; the Tomb of Sheshemnufer (which you can actually climb into, providing a great cheesy photo opportunity); the Roman Towers; the Museum of Islamic Art; the list is practically endless. The many mosques are also impressive, and tourists should check out the mosque of Sayyinda al-Hussein, the burial place of the grandson of the prophet Mohammed (note: non-muslims are not allowed in, but the exterior is just as spectacular). For something a little lighter, there is Cairo Zoo, Merryland, an amusement park with rides and snack bars, the lush Formal Gardens, or the Sharia al-Muski market.
Gay culture is, as you would expect in a strictly Islamic country, underground, and due to this, can be both seedy and dangerous. There are no gay clubs or bars, but there are known areas where gay men meet. Lesbianism is completely under the radar. If you do choose to look for men in Cairo, be aware of the risks involved; some men posing as cruising gays or pimps are undercover police, and gay hang-outs are regularly raided by the police, and there is always the risk of STI transmission with sex education stifled in Egypt. If you understand these risks and still want to meet men, the Nile Hilton Taverne Bar is a relatively safe place to meet gays. Tarhir Square Gardens is a discreet cruising area where young gay men tend to congregate. Jackie’s Joint Discotheque, though obviously not a gay club, draws a mixed and liberal crowd of gays and straights. Pub 28 is popular with gay men and expats, and it is reasonably safe here. The Hammams or bathhouses, such as el-Sultan or Al-Malatya are established gay meeting places, but they are not the cleanest, best maintained of places.
Equality
Homosexuality itself is not illegal in Egypt, but is often prosecuted under various decency and morality laws. Other than this, gays and lesbians are barely recognised in Egyptian law, aside from an acknowledgement of their existence to placate international human rights groups. The general population view homosexuality as a sin, immoral, or even a mental illness. Extreme caution is advised for gay and lesbian travellers in Egypt; don’t go looking to have a holiday romance unless you are very discreet about it.
Travel Information
Flights to Cairo land at the city’s international airport, 20km northeast from the centre, and go from major destinations worldwide. There are daily trains between Cairo and Luxor and Aswan.
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