During the 1950’s Cuba was the next big thing; splendid resorts lined the coast just east of Havana; brightly painted chalets filled the country hamlets and Chevrolets ruled the roads. Today, the resort Playas del Este is nothing more than modern ruins with the occasional working property; the beaches are reminiscent of a wealthy bygone era. The chalets, much like the inner city 19th Century Spanish mansions, are dilapidated while the Chevrolets are fighting with Ladas on the road.
White beaches and glorious crystal blue seas frame an island steeped in history clinging to itself for success. Its heroes in Fidel Castro and Che Guevara are emblazoned across every street, in every town in every region; the people, committed to a life of communism with an income stream from the capitalist tourists of the North.
The country opened its borders to travel in the early 1990’s as their Sugar Cane exports ran dry. The need for better technology encouraged them to trade directly with both Russia and China; the main cities certainly do not go without all the mod-cons of the developed modern age – do we include the iPhone? Well, yes they have them too.
Culture
Currency
The Cuban Dollar – the tourist currency – is worth 24 Cuban Nacionales. When making purchases check whether they mean Nacionales or Dollars, though it is difficult to use Nacionales as a tourist (except in Santa Clara).
Cubans earn approximately £12 a month, receive free education, free national health, and bread, eggs, and rice weekly. Cubans supplement their income through visitors; seeking tips or trying to sell you goods.
Equality
There are certainly areas in the Vedado area of Havana where you will find a thriving gay community. Calle 23 is the centre of gay life, near the Cine Yara (cinema), this street is frequented by gay people night and day – but don’t expect it to be anything like major cosmopolitan cities. The one gay venue on this street is more like a canteen than a party establishment, though get talking to one of the locals and they will invite you to the official gay party that evening.
If you want to join in the official parties you need to put faith and trust in the local Cubans who will order a taxi and take you to the chosen event. However be aware that you will most likely be expected to pay the taxi fair, entrance fee and possibly a drink for the guide.
Unfortunately as the gay scene is yet to enjoy the freedoms of North America and Europe, or even its South American counterparts, Havana’s gay nightlife is one of the best-kept secrets.
· Legal for sexual relations between same-sex consenting adults 16 and over since 1979
· Public antipathy towards LGBT people is high
· Homosexuality was seen as a result of Capitalism and following the Communist victory in 1959, Fidel went on the mission to rid the country of homosexuality.
· National Centre for Sex Education, headed by Mariela Castro, daughter of Raul, runs nationwide educational campaigns on LGBT issues
· Cuba has undertaken extensive campaigns against HIV/AIDS focusing on education and treatment, and in 2003 Cuba had the lowest HIV prevalence in the Americas and one of the lowest ratios in the world
· Occasional campaigns by police in recent years (2001/2004) to crack down on homosexual behaviour often targeting meeting places and transvestites.
Travel Information
Viazul – the bus service - is the best way of getting around the island without the expense of car hire, however cars will allow you to pause and take in the scenic views of jugged hills coated with palm trees and thick green foliage.
Taxis will give you that thrill factor that you only dream of when watching classic 1950’s flicks. The Chevrolets are a pain in the bum, quite literally, constantly being repaired by their owners, these machines bump and grind along the pot-holed roads letting off a proud roar with each acceleration. Ladas on the other hand can be a tight fit. Wherever you go you will also see Bici-taxi (tricycles with seats) and horse carriage transporting locals and can be used by tourists.
Bikes – have to be the best way to get round any country. We hired a set in Trinidad ($3CUC each a day) and enjoyed a leisurely roll to Playa Ancon for snorkelling in the coral reef.
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