Gay life is very much covert in Krakow, with one disappointed American visitor moved to denounce it as ‘crap’. A degree of patience should be enough to unravel what few gems can be found in the haystack of Krakow’s mainstream bars.  Without doubt the crowning glory of the Queen Scene is Kitsch (ul. Wielopole 15/4). Found on the second floor this nightclub is gay-friendly as opposed to gay-exclusive, though the parties do often end in debauchery. Don’t let the torn and frayed interiors fool you, door selection can be ruthless at the weekends. Re-opened for the last year, Cocon on ul. Gazowa 14 can be identified by the bluish light above the entrance. Head down here (open only on weekend evenings) for what is fast becoming known as one of the best gay club nights in the city. Deeper in Kazimierz you’ll find Pozytywka (ul. Bożego Ciała 12) regarded as one of the most gay friendly bars in the area, while heading in the direction of old town don’t miss a visit to Start (ul. Bracka 4) to mince with lipstick lesbians and hairdressers inside a small bar that shines, glitters and reminds of the Miami Vice era. Further afield 7 Club (ul. Św. Filipa 7) is an attractive pub/club crossover accessible at the ring of a doorbell. Cabaret and drag shows sometimes shake the evening up, though usually you’ll find the volume low enough for conversation. Round the corner Ciemnia Club (ul. Krowoderska 31) is a more intense male only environment, with an industrial design, techno tracks and a curtained off cinema screen and mock labyrinth filled with shadowy figures. Ring the doorbell to be summoned inside this courtyard spot.

If you’ve just got a day to spare do your best to hit the highlights of Krakow.  The old town is the sensible start point, and be sure to walk what is known as the Royal Road: starting at Floriańska Gate make your way past the Sukiennice and St Mary's Cathedral in the town square, and down ul. Grodzka where you will pass the church of St Peter and Paul.

The walk concludes at Wawel Castle: the defining landmark of the city, and in itself worthy of several hours of exploration. Just south of Wawel the old Jewish quarter of Kazimierz is a must visit

Krakow is often referred too as Poland’s cultural capital and art highlights include the Czartoryski Museum (featuring Da Vinci’s Lady with an Ermine) and the Wyspianski Museum.   A visit to the Jagiellonian University Museum is a good way to spend a spare hour.

Being gay in Poland can have its problems.  Historically, whilst being gay was never punished by law in Poland it was not exactly encouraged and being a deeply Roman Catholic country, there are still difficulties to be faced.  During the Communist years, homosexually wasn't a problem, because according to the government it didn't exist. Until 1991, homosexuality was listed as a disease. Today, legally homosexuality is allowed, and the age of consent for gay (or straight) sex is 15 years. Gay and lesbian couples do not need to register their partnership, but adoption by gay or lesbian couples is not permitted. Prostitution, however, is legal. Meanwhile, Article 32 of the Polish constitution prohibits discrimination against Polish citizens for any reason, though it seems the average Polish citizen finds that article as optional as speed limit signs on the highway.

Even in the more progressive cities such as Krakow or Warsaw, abuse against gays is not uncommon - and it can take either a physical or a verbal form.  Only in 2005 a gang of religious extremists and football hooligans ambushed a Gay Pride march which then ended up in a bloody street battle.  So, does that mean gays should stay away?  Not at all, but caution should be observed especially in public places and whilst younger people are more liberal, understand that the older generation might not have quite so relaxed a response.  In reality, gays who wish to openly express their sexuality would be better to stick to the gay bars and restaurants which are relatively plentiful. 

Getting there:

By plane:

By train:

Getting around

Getting around Krakow is very easy.  The taxi is remarkably self-contained and it is possible to walk to most of the major attractions.  Taxis are also relatively cheap and it is possible to negotiate with drivers if you want them to take you on a specific tour.