Sometimes referred to as the “Paris of the South” due to its European architecture and flair, Buenos Aires was recently named as one of the “10 best gay destinations for 2008” by Canada.com.  The city is extremely “gay friendly” and openly advertises for gay tourist.   While there in January of 2008, I watched a local newscast covering the opening of a gay tango club, which stated that approximately 20% of tourists were gay and lesbian.

Buenos Aires is situated along the Rio Plata, which forms the boundary between Argentina and Uruguay.  It is the capital and cultural centre of Argentina.  The metropolitan area (Greater Buenos Aires – GBA) has a population of approximately 13 million people.  The City, which was founded in 1536, is divided into 48 barrios (neighborhoods) each with its own distinctive flavor, history, culture and architecture.  Most tourist sites are located in the barrios including and surrounding the city centre (La Boca, Montserrat, Palermo, Puerto Madero, Recoleta, Retiro, and San Telmo), however I encourage visitors to be adventurous and explore many of the other neighborhoods, especially Belgrano and Once (great shopping).  While I believe the city is best seen by walking though the tree lined streets, the city boast an efficient, easy to understand and inexpensive (approximately 30 cents (US)) mass transit system. 

The Argentine Constitution contains an 1853 provision that was well ahead of its time.  (Yes it is not a typo, I said 1853).  The provision reads: "The private acts of men, while they don't affect the public moral or order, are exempt from the competence of the judges, and can be only judged by God".  This provision has prevented Argentina from criminalizing private gay behavior for more than 150 years.

Since 1996, the Buenos Aires constitution has expressly forbidden discrimination based upon sexual orientation.  In 2003, Buenos Aires became the first Latin American city to recognize civil unions.  There is currently an effort in the Argentine Congress to legalize gay unions nation-wide.

 Like in the rest of the world, the presence of Constitutional and statutory protections do not guarantee against individual acts of discrimination.  While I have visited on a number of occasions and have never experienced any hostility or homophobia, that does not mean that such incidents do not occur.  In short I would say that in this regard Buenos Aires is comparable to any major city in Western Europe, the United States or Canada.

I would note that the Argentine people tend to be reserved and public displays of affection are less common both among heterosexuals and homosexuals.  (That is other than the ubiquitous kissing on the check that accompanies most greetings). 

Most International Flights arrive at Ezeiza Airport (officially Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini)  which is located about 35 kilometers (21 miles) from the city center.  While it is possible to change money before you leave customs, you will get a better exchange rate if you do so after you leave customs.  Banco Nacional de Argentina has an office just outside of customs and gives you the same rate you will find in the city.

Authorized ground transportation can be arranged at the transportation booths located just outside of customs.  As you leave customs you will be approached by a number of people offering transportation into the city.  DO NOT accept – they are not authorized to carry passengers and often take advantage of tourist.  You should use only the authorized services and confirm the price before leaving.  In January 2008, a taxis fare ranged between 35 and 50 Pesos.  Minibuses are available for about 26 Pesos and make several stops along the way.  A public bus, route 86, is also available.  Ask at the information booth for directions to the bus stop.  The cost is cheap 1.35 Pesos but the trip is long (one and half hours).  If you choose this option be aware that public buses take coins only.