The Motor City might seem like an odd tourist destination; once a booming industrial centre, the city is now suffering from a declining population and the crime problems that you would find in any large town. That said, the home of Motown presents an urgent and raw music scene, and a few surprises for the gay traveller looking hard enough.

Detroit put itself on the map by producing two great American commodities; cars and music. Many motown, soul, jazz, hiphop and indie acts have come from Detroit, and with the car industry now fizzling out, it’s the music that’s left. For jazz lounge lizards, there is Baker’s Keyboard Lounge on the west side; for a night in a sweat-box techno venue, check out downtown Apartment; or for live indie rock bands or 8 Mile style hiphop, give Magic Stick on Woodward Avenue a go. For a taste of all-American sports (or strong dose of testosterone), the Tigers and the Pistons play pro basketball in Detroit, and if you want something even more butch and violent, the Red Wings pro ice hockey team call the city their home. There is no specific gay quarter in Detroit, but there are plenty of bars clustered on the north and west sides of the city. The aptly-named Pandora’s Box attracts a mostly female, African-American crowd, or there is Stilettos, a down-to-earth, mostly lesbian bar. There is plenty for the boys too; Adam’s Apple or Backstreet are stalwarts of the gay scene; R&R Saloon provides leather daddies; and for something a little different, there is line dancing at Diamond Jim’s Saloon. For summer travellers, Motor City Pride is held each June, and includes a gay film showing, street parade, family picnic day, and live music.

Homosexuality is legal in the US, but, as we know, there has been nationwide wrangling over gay rights in the Land of the Free recently, mostly around gay marriage. This, by the way, isn’t legal in the state of Michigan. If, however, you are after something a little less committed, Detroit has a diverse gay crowd to play with.

Detroit Metro airport is 15 miles south of the city. Cabs from here into town will cost around $45, or a bus around $1.50, but be warned, the bus takes considerably longer (around two hours). From elsewhere in the US, Greyhound buses are your best bet, and there are daily trains from New York and Chicago. Once within the city, it is best to hire a car or use a reliable cab company as public transport is not particularly dependable.